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Katie's passion for food

Katie and guest writers talk about their foodie experiences

Talking Turkey

It was a wet and dusky afternoon in October when I decided it was time to visit Sarah Copas at her free-range turkey farm. As we arrived at the farm we were greeted by the sight of several thousand birds pecking and running around in fields and my two bored boys (it was the school holidays) were immediately engaged. Sarah encouraged us to take a walk into the cherry orchards where most are kept. As we entered they ran up to us – they have the funniest run; their fat bellies swinging from left to right as they hop from one foot to another. (A little too like me at Wednesday night Zumba!). My sons shrieked with delight and to our astonishment the turkeys answered right back with the same pitch. We spent a good 20 minutes watching them and calling out to hear them answer.

The boys with the turkeys

If you wanted to eat poultry knowing it had enjoyed a good life then these birds would be the answer. They were happy, healthy and had a great deal of space to run around in including an area of maize to give them a feeling of safety and cover. Big barns provided straw bales for their natural roosting behaviour. At night two specially trained collie dogs are used to round them into barns.

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Posted by admin 01/12/2011

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Paola Rocchi at Caldesi in Campagna for Frescobaldi Fortnight

On Monday an Italian chef by the name of Paola Rocchi arrived at our house all the way from sunny Tuscany.  She is staying with us whilst we stage Frescobaldi Fortnight at Caldesi in Campagna – A chance to enjoy Paola’s Tuscan food and the wines of her employers, the Frescobaldi family. Living with four men (two young and small, one husband and one elderly dad) it was lovely to have some female company for a change, and even better she is a fellow foodie. As Paola speaks no English I have also planned to get her at least saying a few phrases.

Paola on her bike

Paola is Head Chef at Castelgiaconda in Montalcino, one of the beautiful wine estates belonging to Frescobaldi. Originally from Lazio she now lives and works in Tuscany. She rides to work every day on her Harley Davidson loving the fresh air and changing landscape around her.

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Posted by admin 04/11/2011

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Cooking with honey – our evening with the Chalfont Beekeeping Society

We had a great meeting on Tuesday 27th September with our local beekeepers as we are hoping to become hive owners next year.  We gave a talk about cooking with honey and shared tips on using this beautiful natural product.  For details of the Chalfont Beekeepers contact:- www.chalfontbeekeepers.co.uk.

A few pointers to remember when cooking with honey:-

  • Honey is sweeter than sugar so you need less; therefore as a rough guide add three quarters of the amount of sugar in a recipe.
  • It has the same calorific value as sugar and cannot be given to diabetics.
  • Honey adds moisture to recipes so other liquids need to be reduced slightly to counteract this.  One of the members told me it is an invert sugar so does not behave in the same way as sugar, for example it doesn’t work in a sponge cake.
  • Honey is more dense than sugar so it weighs more so don’t substitute one with the other to the same proportions.
  • Honey adds its own flavour to the finished product, be aware of adding strong honeys to dishes where it might overshadow other ingredients.  Use mild honey such as acacia for dressings and stronger honey such as chestnut to eat with cheese.  Heather honey is wonderful in cakes and spread onto cheese.
  • Honey adds acid to a recipe, so often bicarbonate is added to bump up the alkaline.
  • And honey can cause baked foods to brown more quickly.

Italian uses for honey

  • Romans used it with snow and fruit juices which we tried last year and it was very effective with a squeeze from a fresh orange over snow and drizzled with honey, delicious!
  • In Montalcino, Tuscany, the national honey festival is held in September. It is in the beautiful grounds of the Castello Montalcino and is sure to inspire anyone remotely interested in honey.
    I loved it.
  • Italians often eat honey with cheese try it spooned over freshly made ricotta or spread onto slices of Pecorino (sheep’s milk) cheese.  I understand from one of the members it is also gorgeous over Greek Halloumi cheese slices.
  • Mixed with black truffle for truffle honey to drizzle over chicken or cheeses such as Pecorino or Parmesan.
  • Crogetti – fried dough squares or balls of fried dough drizzled with honey and cinnamon
  • Stirred into hot milk cold mornings.
  • Bee pollen is crunchy and can offer texture when sprinkled on foods.

Types of Italian honey

Italians can be more specific about where they honey is from and each one is labelled with the type of flower the bees have visited apart from Millefiori meaning “many flowers”.  Italian honey varies hugely from mild to strong.  Personally I think chestnut honey tastes like horse manure smells but don’t tell the Tuscans they love it!  My favourite is one called Melata which is supposedly made from the oozing sugar from overripe fruits.

Acacia is light and perfect for most uses.  Tiglio is from plain trees and there are many more…..

Why it is good for you

Honey has vitamins such as B6, Thiamin, Niacin, Riboflavin, minerals, calcium, potassium and zinc.  Natural antioxidants help to eliminate free radicals.  Honey and cider vinegar is used against arthritis.

Honey acts as an antiseptic/antibacterial agent for wounds, burns and sore throats. It also said to reduce swelling and prevent scarring. It can be used as oral antiseptic, especially mixed with lemon which is why we all like this drink when we have a cold.  Although my favourite nightcap is a cup of milk mixed with honey and whisky warmed in the microwave.

Storing honey

Honey should be stored at room temperature, in the fridge it becomes solid. The cold makes honey crystallize.  To dissolve the crystals, warm it up. Put the honey jar in warm water into the microwave with the lid off. Microwave on medium power and stir regularly until the crystals dissolve. If overheated it will burn so take care.

Sticking on the spoon

To stop honey sticking on a tablespoon when measuring, coat it lightly with vegetable oil before measuring. The honey will slide off the spoon.

Marinades

A little sweetness makes us all feel good!  Try rubbing honey on pork chops or mixed with lemon over of lamb or ham. It’s easier to coat with honey if it is warmed up so just put the pot in the microwave for a moment, mix with a little lemon juice and a little grated lemon zest and baste away before and during cooking.  I am sure you all have had honey over gammon but have you tried it over salmon?

Oven-baked Salmon with Pistachio and Honey Crust

Salmone al forno in crosta di pistacchi e miele

Serves 4

50g shelled pistachios

30g homemade dry breadcrumbs

1 tablespoon rosemary

1 tablespoon thyme

4 salmon steaks or one piece of salmon (about 600g)

4 teaspoons honey

4 teaspoons olive oil

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Preheat the oven to 180°C/350°F/gas mark 4. Prepare the crust for the salmon steaks. Chop the nuts by hand or in a food processor until they are the size of peppercorns. Set aside in a mixing bowl. Do the same with the bread and herbs to make herb breadcrumbs and mix thoroughly with the nuts and salt and pepper.

Season the salmon all over with a little salt and, if using steaks, lay them up against one another in a roasting pan. Drizzle the honey over the salmon spreading it out with your finger. Now coat with the breadcrumb mixture, patting it down so that it sticks to the honey. Drizzle over the oil. (If you have steaks, separate them to allow even cooking). Transfer to the oven for 15–25 minutes or until cooked through. Serve the salmon on a bed of parsnip mash or with a green salad.

Here is a great salad dressing to go with grilled meats and fish.

Insalata di Rucola, pinoli e melograno

Rocket, pinenut and pomegranate salad

Serves 4-6

1 handful of rocket per person, long stalks removed

85g pine nuts, lightly toasted

½ pomegranate, seeds only

2 tablespoons flat leaf parsley leaves, rough torn

Dressing

2 teaspoons honey

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

Salt and pepper to taste

1 to 2 tablespoons of honey vinegar or lemon juice

Mix the ingredients for the dressing together in a large bowl.

Add rocket, pinenuts and pomegranate seeds mix well.  Put into a clean dish and serve straight away.  Sprinkle with parsley.

And for a sweet treat, here a three easy recipes:-

Date, oat and honey slices

Makes approximately 20 small squares

100g butter

4 tbsp honey

125g rolled oats

125g dates, chopped

75g wholemeal flour

1tsp baking powder

Preheat oven to 180°C.  Line a medium size baking tray with baking parchment.  Melt butter and honey together then add the oats and chopped dates. Stir to combine.   Add wholemeal flour and baking powder. Stir to combine.   Spoon the mixture into the tin and bake for around 20 minutes or until golden brown.

Swedish cream

A friend of mine offered me this delicious cream when we had a fruit salad at her house.  She had used banana, papaya, apple and kiwi for the salad but strawberries and raspberries are lovely in season too.  She simply whipped double cream up and stirred in runny honey and cinnamon to taste.  Delicious!

Apple Leather

Cooking apples are ideal for the cooked method of this or use eating apples or a mixture of the two for the non-cooking method.

Preheat the oven to 70°C/140°F.  Line a baking tray with cling film, baking parchment or a silicone mat.  Select ripe and unbruised fruit and remove the cores and pips.  Do not peel.  Cut it into chunks and put into a food processor or blender.  Add the juice of half a lemon and whizz to blend.  Add a little water to loosen the pulp to a “just liquid” consistency.  You need to be able to tip the puree from side to side in the tray to spread it out so the “medium thick soup stage” is what you are looking for.  If it isn’t sweet enough for your taste add honey as necessary.

Pour the pureed apple onto the prepared trays and tip this way and that until the surface is covered and the puree is around half a centimetre thick.  Bake in the oven for around four to five hours or until the consistency of leather and no longer sticky to the touch.  Eat straight away or roll up while still just warm in the cling film or parchment.  Depending on the humidity the leather will last well in a dried out state.

If you prefer the taste of cooked apple, peel, core and chop them and cook with honey and lemon juice to taste for a few minutes adding enough water to achieve the soup consistency.  Follow instructions above for baking.

Posted by admin 29/09/2011

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Discover the Origin Campaign

Katie was also busy this weekend with the Discover the Origin Campaign which has been a three year campaign promoting five key European products: Parma Ham, Parmigiano-Reggiano, Burgundy and Douro Valley wines and Port. Katie concentrated her efforts of using the foods from the campaign and cooked Pasta al Forno, a delicious combination of pasta, boiled egg (weird but works!), tomato sauce and meatballs. She also made a salad of roasted squash with Parmesan shavings and Broad Bean, Parmegiano-Reggiano and Mint Puree which is perfect as a crostini topping or as a side to lamb.

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Posted by admin 03/08/2011

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A hot and sunny weekend in July

Giancarlo had a great time with Birra Moretti in London this week making pizza in ten minutes with hundreds of people in Soho Square, Exchange Square and Canary Wharf. He is also going to be doing some “Long Lunches” with them, for a chance to win one for you and your friends visit facebook.com/morettiuk.

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Posted by admin 03/08/2011

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A busy weekend in July

Giancarlo and I had great fun at Westfield over the weekend, sadly not shopping but demonstrating how to make fresh pasta and some summery sauces to the crowds at the BBC Good Food Show.  Here are our recipes we cooked up with summer produce.

us doing a demo

Courgette, Cherry Tomato and Chilli Pasta Sauce

Serve 4
320g dried pasta such as Penne or Tagliatelle
4 tablespoons of extra-virgin olive oil
1 fat courgette or 2 small, diced
3 garlic cloves, peeled and crushed
1 red chilli, finely sliced (depending on strength)
500g cherry tomatoes, halved
3 sprig basil, torn roughly
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
50g Parmesan cheese, freshly grated

Bring a pan of salted water to the boil and pour in the pasta and cook until al dente.

Meanwhile, heat the oil in frying pan, when hot add the courgette, 1 sprig of basil, garlic cloves and chilli and sauté until lightly browned.  Add the cherry tomatoes and continue to fry for 3 minutes on a high heat.  Do not overcook the tomatoes. Drain the pasta and toss with the sauce. Serve on warm plates topped with Parmesan and the remaining basil.

Genovese Pesto with Green beans and Potatoes

Originally a sauce made from basil leaves during summer that when covered with oil would last until winter. Over the years experimental chefs have adapted the recipe to use different ingredients. Even within Liguria when talking about Pesto Genovese, the Ligurians will argue about which is the best way to make it. Here is my version which I believe is the nearest one can get to the definitive Ligurian without growing your own Ligurian basil. For a genuine Ligurian pesto add some cooked potatoes and green beans to the pasta just before serving.

50g basil, leaves torn from their stems
50g pinenuts, toasted
125ml extra virgin olive oil
1 small garlic clove, peeled
25g parmesan, finely grated

Purists will use a pestle and mortar but if your kitchen doesn’t have one, use a food processor instead. I prefer to toast the pinenuts, I feel their presence is stronger this way, although left raw is also fine. Put the basil leaves into the mortar and bash them with the pestle until they become a pulp. Add the garlic and nuts and bash repetitively again. IF you are using a food processor put the basil, garlic and nuts in together to blitz first.  Next, for each method, add the olive oil, followed by the cheese. Add salt and black pepper to taste.

Note: never heat the pesto – simply stir it into hot drained pasta instead. To keep the pesto, put it into a sterile jar and top up with a little olive oil so that the pesto is completely covered. It will last for a few days like this in a fridge.

Along with having to perform live shows at Westfield, Giancarlo also had to rush across London to film as a judge on the TV show ‘Monster Munchies’ (GoodFood Channel). The programme airs in November and features two teams making massive pizzas which Giancarlo judged for presentation, taste and creativity. Also on the judging we’re Nanny P and Jessica from ‘The Only Way is Essex’ who both confessed to liking a nice slice of pizza in between filming their hit ITV2 show.

Posted by admin 12/07/2011

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Our fight for the fish in our seas – our journey into sustainability

The world’s ocean larder is under threat and campaigns like Hugh Fearnley-Whitingstall’s ‘Fish Fight’ and now Project Ocean at Selfridges have bought issues such as overfishing and discard once more to the public eye. It seems we can all do more to protect the ocean environment and prevent whole species from extinction by sourcing our fish in a different, more sustainable way. I decided to go on my own fishy adventure to find out more.

It’s all about searching out fish that has been responsibly caught, seeking out species that are not over fished and eating them in the correct season.

Is size important

There is always a lot of talk about the weight and size of the fish. The reason for this is that this ensures maturity of fish, for example a cod should be fully grown before it is caught to allow it to have spawned. Being sure of provenance is key and that’s why I started my journey by visiting the people on the front line….

The fishermen

Back in February Giancarlo and I, with our two boys, went down to Hastings and Eastbourne where we met local fisherman and saw dabs, whiting and flounder being landed. These species are sustainable but overlooked when it comes to the big hitters of cod, seabass and haddock. I returned two weeks with the Sustainable Restaurant Association to Hastings with Mario, one of our chefs, to see around the market, talk to more fishermen and fish cognoscenti. This time, only a month later the fish had changed, dabs were still abundant but now cuttlefish and mackerel were prevalent. Because of high winds and their small boats the fishermen hadn’t been out the night before so the market was almost empty bar the dabs and cuttlefish. It’s so obvious but it’s not something I had considered before that you just cannot get fish when you want, sustainable or not. The fishermen we spoke to were disheartened generally, reduced quotas, the ridiculous discard law and little help had rendered fishing a pretty awful job in Hastings and young people were simply not joining the workforce of local fishermen. I would dearly love to help but as France pays more for the fish than we do they don’t send the fish to Billingsgate or anywhere in London, instead it goes to the fish market in Boulogne. It would be easier for us to get fish from Cornwall as they have better established links to London but as a Sussex girl I would love to support my home county.

Giancarlo took a trip to Mercea island in April also with the Sustainable Restaurant Association where he saw hand harvested oysters from the beds around. Oysters and their opulent meatiness have been enjoyed for centuries in Britain and after his trip Giancarlo often puts them on the menu at Bray.

A few weeks later we were in Suffolk where we saw line caught cod being landed and spoke to fishermen about the best way to buy our fish. They felt there were plenty of cod out there but if they were fished using unsustainable methods ie nets they would be further endangered, put other species at risk and damage the marine environment. So the message is if we really want to eat cod we should insist on them being line-caught.

Buy local

Obviously if you live near the coast then to buy direct from local small boat fishermen is the ideal but if not then look for a fish merchant who can give you the full provenance of the fish you’re buying… some even down to the name of the boat that landed it and its Captain!

Eat fish in season and be prepared for an empty net.

We then took a rather frenetic trip to Cromer on the North Norfolk coast to enjoy some juicy local crab only to find that the crab season hadn’t started yet which brings up the point of seasonality. It’s a no brainer really why not wait until sweet juicy crab from Cromer or Brixham is available on the market than open a tin of crab from Thailand? The answer is in the taste as well as the fact you can eat our indigenous crab with a clear conscience too!

Most recently we took a lovely trip down to Lyme Regis in Dorset where we fished for first of the season mackerel and came back with empty keep nets empty… but then again we’re good a cooking fish just not catching it.

Back at our restaurants I met with our fishmonger Craig where he basically told us that to benefit the most from sustainable British fish we should introduce “Catch of the Day” where the best of what has just been landed that day can feature on our menus and we can react to what is available. So watch out for our catch of the day blackboards at the Caffe and Giancarlo and Gregorio’s changing fish dishes at Caldesi in Campagna in Bray.

I’ve included some simple recipes with sustainable fish in our current Caldesi newspaper. I’ll keep updating this as the season’s fish change, this weekend we are off to Puglia so I hope to come back with some great new recipes to share. I remember raw fish dishes being popular on my last visit there so we will see…..

Posted by admin 27/05/2011

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Giancarlo’s BBC Breakfast with extra salt

We we’re up pretty early in the Caldesi household last Saturday when my husband Giancarlo was asked to go into the BBC TV Centre at Shepherds Bush to discuss the use of salt in our diets. Joined in the Saturday breakfast studios by Lucy Jones, Dietician from the British Dietetic Association the pair were asked to comment on the decision of Greater Manchester Council to ask fish and chip shops to remove salt shakers from view in the restaurants. Is this a case of the nanny state going too far?

The average British adult eats between 8 and 10 grams of salt a day but the GDA (Guided Daily Amount) of salt for an adult is just 6 grams a day so there’s obviously a problem, especially as too much salt in your diet is linked to high blood pressure and major illnesses such as strokes and heart disease.

Giancarlo’s point of view was that restaurants are an unlikely cause of the high levels of salt in our diets as very few people eat out in restaurants everyday. He demonstrated that the amount of salt used in cooking dishes at his restaurants might seem a lot but when portioned out most dishes easily have less than a gram of salt in their makeup. Lucy agreed that the high levels of salt in processed foods are the main culprits for our high intake and advised viewers to carefully read the salt levels in dishes like ready meals and pre-prepared snacks.

In closing Giancarlo pointed out that in his restaurants there are no salt cellars on the tables and people very rarely ask for extra salt for their meals – like most chefs Giancarlo believes that seasoning should happen in the kitchen and not at the table.

There’s no doubting that salt is an important part of our diet without we our bodies cannot function but like most things it’s important to use in moderation and take control of how much salt is in your diet by reading labels or ideally cook from fresh and be the one in control of how much salt you add to your dishes.

In Roman times salt was used to pay soldiers wages and this is the derivation of the word ‘salary’… so if you want to enjoy the pay off of a healthier diet then ensure you spend your salary on fresh ingredients and give shop bought ready meals and snacks a miss.

Posted by admin 06/04/2011

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Beautiful Venice

I have just come back from Venice where we had the scariest white knuckle ride in a water taxi to the airport through the aqua-alta – the all too common flooding that occurs.  However it didn’t mar the experience of being there though.  Surely Venice is the prettiest city in the world.  Winter is a great time of year to go, we had two days of sunshine and blue skies and only one of rain and there were hardly any tourists.  I am glad I took a pair of wellies to combat the flooding but nothing spoils the staggering charm waiting round each corner.

For breakfast we stopped at Pasticiera Rosa Salva near Piazza San Marco.  I had a strange little dome of vanilla soaked sponge with sultanas, delicious with a proper cappuccino.   At Carnevale time they have crispy doughnuts filled with Marsala custard called Fritelle allo zabaglione which at 1euro each are irresistible.

For food I would recommend Ristorante Carpaccio in Riva Schiavoni.  It is a small family run restaurant owned by Abruzzeze so the menu has Venetian classics but also a chilli-hot lamb ragù typical of Abruzzo. Then you can’t go wrong at La Madonna near the Rialto bridge.  It’s busy and bustling with loads of white coated waiters serving mainly Venetians rather than tourists.  I love it and especially the squid cooked in its ink, black, startling and so tasty I could have had thirds.  Also the risotto frutti di mare, just pure comfort food when you come inside from the wintery air.  Finish the meal with a “sgroppino” a delicious sweet drink of lemon sorbet, vodka and Prosecco.

Went to Harry’s Bar but didn’t really enjoy paying 15 Euro for a Bellini, it tasted great but is any drink worth that much especially in half-empty bar.  Better still, stand up with the locals in one of the plentiful little corner bars where made-with-love-and-care tramezzini (sandwiches) tempt you and glasses of local wines.  When are our sandwich bars going to do raddichio, speck and chopped egg or preserved chiodini mushroom and mayo?

We are going to celebrate Carnevale big time at our restaurants in February so look out for our menus, costumed staff and general sense of partying.  I am also doing a Splendours of Venice cookery class inspired by my trip and Giancarlo is throwing a Venetian Masked Dinner in Caldesi in Campagna.  For further details see www.caldesi.com.

Posted by admin 22/12/2010

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Glorious Game Season

It’s the game season and if the mention of ‘game’ conjures up images of the upper classes decked in tweed while slugging sloe gin at expensive shooting parties – think again. Game isn’t just the preserve of the rich, it’s available to everyone and according to nutritionists and environmentalists we should all be eating a lot more.
Italians have always been very big on hunting and eating game, it’s part of their culture across all social classes. They eat rabbit like we eat chicken and wild boar like we eat pork.
The great thing about game is that it’s a sustainable source of wild meat and it’s on our doorstep. Wild game exists naturally and therefore puts no additional strain on the earth’s resources. As game is frequently culled to protect crops it is a sensible option to eat it.

It’s low in fat, low on cost and full of flavour and yet it has been out of fashion for years in the UK. Perhaps in this homogenised cling-filmed wrapped world of convenience we shun the idea of dealing with a bit of fur or feather and don’t know what to do with the produce but that shouldn’t come between us and an easily obtained source of protein. Thanks to celebrity chefs and campaigns to get us eating more game there has been a resurgence in game and it is appearing on more and more menus. Once converted to the delights of game, food lovers fast become fanatical about the range and quality of game available in the UK.
Rabbit seems to be getting popular and with a general desire for local and sustainable foods it has again become a regular on the restaurant plate rather than just in children’s books. Wood pigeon, venison, partridge and pheasant are also much more popular than they have been in the last fifty years.

History of game
Rabbit is indigenous to North Africa and Spain and was imported by the Romans to Italy in the third century BC. In medieval days sailors released rabbits onto distant shores to have a supply of meat. It is now found throughout the world. Deer and pheasants too are thought to have been brought over by the Romans although some species of deer existed here since Neolithic times. The tiny muntjac deer are originally from Asia but brought here by the Duke of Bedford and then escaped from his grounds.

Rising Sales
Supermarkets, butchers, farmers’ markets and on-line distributors are all now stocking game. In fact venison, pheasant and grouse have become so popular that sales rose 46 per cent to a market value of £57 million from 2004 to last year. By 2011 those sales are due to increase by a further 47 per cent and to be worth £84 million. However, we need to encourage more British farmers to keep venison as we now need to import from New Zealand to keep up with demand.
The growth in game sales exceeds those of poultry and more typical red meats but it is still a niche market and is tiny compared with the £3 billion value of poultry and £2.9 billion of red meat.

When should we eat it
Rabbit can be eaten all year round but is best avoided over summer as they breed at this time. Grouse is available from 12th August to 10th December. Partridge is September 1st to February 1st and pheasant October 1st to February 1st. Most deer are November 1st to April 28th apart from fallow and red deer which are August 1st to April 30th and Roe bucks which are April 1st to October 31st. However it is still an offence to kill game on a Sunday and Christmas day in England and Wales.

To hang or not to hang
The fashion was to hang meat to improve flavour, sometimes until maggots crawled out of it but now birds and some deer are only hung for a day or two. Game also freezes well and is thought to make the meat more tender which again negates the need to hang it.

Why we should eat it
Game is largely free-range which means with all the exercise the animals and birds have they are naturally low in fat and cholesterol. Most wild game has 5% to 7% fat, whereas lamb has 25% and a piece of prime beef can contain as much as 45%. The varied diet of wild game means more variety in taste in the meat and interestingly flavours will change according to the season and what is on the ground to eat.

Venison is high in protein, iron and Omega 3. Pheasant and partridge are high in iron, protein, Vitamin B(6) and selenium which helps to protect cells from damage caused by free radicals. Rabbit meat is low in fat, high in protein and is a good source of niacin, iron, phosphorus, and vitamin B12.

How to cook game
Although it is great that game is low in fat, this means it is likely to dry out during cooking so some additional oil or fat should be added to protect the meat. This is why birds are often wrapped in pancetta or bacon. This process is called “barding”. Regularly basting with the cooking fat or pot-roasting also helps this. Young or farmed rabbits are suitable for roasting but larger, wild ones need to be cooked slowly although they do have more flavour. The offal of rabbits and birds is perfect for terrines. Use the breast of game birds for quick pan-fried dishes and the rest for stews or ragu.

For more ideas and tuition in preparing and cooking game come to one of our game courses or our game evening, details below. For bookings go online to www.caldesi.com or call the office on 0207 487 0750.

The Game course with Katie’s Kitchen and Portman-Burtley Estate – Gerrards Cross, Bucks
Meet Gamekeeper John Blackiston at the beautiful 2,000 acre estate for a light breakfast and find out more about game birds and venison. Learn skills such as how to pluck and prepare a pheasant or partridge, pigeon and rabbit then go to Katie’s Kitchen to learn to bone, bard and cook game. Prepare dishes such as Pot roast Pigeon on saffron and mushroom risotto, Pheasant with orange and chestnuts, Venison ragù, Tuscan Rabbit with olives and more. Date:Saturday 27th November. Time: 9.30am – 3.00pm Price: £150

Cooking with Game
The colder months are the perfect time to enjoy game; join Katie in this hands-on course, together with her you will prepare game birds from the feather to the pot as well as cook meat such as venison and rabbit. During the lesson you will learn how to bard and tie birds and cook them in the best way to keep the moisture in. Dishes may include pot roast pheasant with orange and chestnuts, wood pigeon breast salad, venison with preserved cherries and Tuscan rabbit with olives.
La Cucina Caldesi, Marylebone Cooking Monday 29 November 2010 Price: £150 10.30am – 2.30pm

Pot Roast Game

One-pot game cooking

Arrosto Misto
Pot-Roast Hunter’s Catch

This is one of those old recipes that you just know would once have been cooked in a cauldron above afire. We still possess Giancarlo’s grandmother’s pot that used to be suspended on a tripod at different height to vary the cooking times. It’s a meal in one: celery and carrots constitute the vegetable component, the meat is your protein and the potatoes your carbohydrates. Most lean cuts of meat will work in this recipe and you don’t have to use a mixture, guinea fowl or chicken alone, for example, would work perfectly well. You could ask your butcher to joint the poultry for you. Do brown the meat very well, a very dark appearance will ensure a good flavour to the dish. Traditionally the dish uses pieces of pork fat, or lardo di colonnata, which melt down during cooking. If you can buy lardo in your local deli, it will impart a rich flavour and keep the meat moist but if you cannot get it, butter or olive oil also works well. This recipe and photo are taken from my book The Italian Cookery Course published by Kyle Cathie.

Serves 6
100ml olive oil
200g butter or half lardo, cut into 3cm pieces, and half butter
1.5 kg meat (e.g. a mixture of rabbit, partridge, pheasant, pigeon, duck)
2 celery stalks, cut into 2cm long pieces
2 large carrots, cut into 2.5cm thick pieces
1 large white or red onion, cut into eighths
4 garlic cloves, unpeeled and lightly crushed with the flat of a knife
2 sprigs rosemary, branch included, broken into small pieces
5 bay leaves
100ml white wine
200–300ml chicken stock
2 large potatoes, peeled and quartered

Heat the oil, butter and lardo (if using) together in a large saucepan over a medium heat. When hot, add all the different meats together and fry for about 30 minutes or until well browned, turning the joints only once during the cooking time. Next add the celery, carrots, onion, garlic, rosemary and bay leaves and fry until golden. Pour in the wine and enough stock to almost cover the meat. Put the lid on askew to allow some steam to escape, and simmer for about 1 1/2 hours until the liquid has almost disappeared. Half way through the cooking time add the potato. The liquid should reduce down to a sticky consistency and the meat and potatoes should be well cooked and browned all over. If the liquid disappears before the meat is cooked add extra stock; conversely if there is too much liquid when the meat is cooked, remove the lid and boil hard to reduce the amount. Serve with a salad and crusty bread

Posted by admin 27/10/2010

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