Auntie Orlandina

My mother’s sister Orlandina was a wonderful cook, who lived near our home in San Quirico d’Orcia, Tuscany. Every summer, I would spend two precious weeks with her.

Just outside the town walls, she had a small piece of land where she grew grain, vegetables, grapes, walnuts and almonds. The area was known for vipers, so they had to tread carefully as they walked around the fields. They took empty baskets and always returned home with them full of produce to cook together.

My nonna taught me how to value food, how to use it all – every bit of it and how to preserve it for winter. In the photo, she’s stirring a large copper pot of polenta — it must have been cold outside and we would have eaten it with a rich ragù or a hearty stew.

Though she never had children, she poured her love into cooking and passed on her love of porcini mushrooms. She taught me how to recognise wild porcini, keep quiet about any good spots I found, how to clean and cook them and how to preserve them under oil. She also taught me to crochet and how to laugh at life. Her humour and generosity shaped the way I still cook today — with care, respect, and joy.

Return to Tuscany

Katie and Giancarlo came to national attention when they featured in the BBC2 series Return to Tuscany in 2006. The series, which was broadcast world-wide, followed the jovial ‘larger than life’ chef as he and his then fiancée Katie set up and launched a residential cookery school in Tuscany. The show climaxed with them getting married in a dreamlike Tuscan wedding.

Marietta Bellugi and Adelmo Caldesi

Giancarlo’s parents

Giancarlo’s parents lived on a smallholding just outside Montepulciano. His parents involved him in every part of the farm and the kitchen. He was hands-on from a toddler foraging for food in the fields, picking vegetables at all times of the year. His father taught him how to sharpen tools and knives, fetch water from the well, chop wood, prune vines and fruit trees and well as how to look after the cows, pigs, guinea fowl, chickens, ducks, geese, turkey and rabbits.

Giancarlo says that “Most of all my dad taught me how to be resilient and never give up. He was a tough man as he was a prisoner during the second world war in Daccau and never felt sorry for himself and never talked about his experience.“My mum taught be how to be smart, properly attired, clean and polite. She embodied kindness, standards as well as how to laugh and dance through life even though she was orphaned at a young age.”

Both parents taught him to cook, how to make something out of nothing and not to waste food.

Favourite place
Their home and farm.

Favourite Italian recipe
Memmo’s Tuscan Ragu on tagliatelle, Marietta’s Roast Rabbit with herbs.